Markha valley to Changthang trek
How we found the perfect trek in Ladakh : Markha to Kharnak (Changthang)
One day, we received an inquiry from a European family looking to trek in Ladakh. But this wasn’t a typical request – they had a very specific set of expectations for their adventure.
First, they had limited time in Ladakh, so the trek needed to be completed in 5 to 6 days. Second, they didn’t want a loop trek; they preferred a linear route that would take them from point A to point B without retracing their steps.
They were also eager to experience local culture, so staying in villages along the way was important to them. They wanted to interact with Ladakhi families and get a glimpse of traditional life. At the same time, they wanted all the classic elements of a Himalayan trek – crossing high mountain passes, views of towering peaks and glaciers, and immersion in Ladakh’s raw natural environment.
On top of that, they were hoping to witness the region’s diversity of landscapes – something usually only possible by traveling between distant areas like Zanskar, Nubra, and the Changthang plateau. Finally, although they didn’t mind meeting other trekkers occasionally, they wanted at least some stretches of total seclusion.
So we asked ourselves: which trek could possibly meet all of these expectations?
The answer turned out to be the Markha to Dat trek, the Markha valley to the Changthang plateau trek – a route that checked every box on their list.
Zalung Karpo La pass : A door to the world of the Changpa nomads
For seasoned trekkers and mountain lovers, there’s a special magic not just in summiting peaks, but in crossing high mountain passes. While a summit marks a singular destination, a mountain pass signifies transition – a gateway to something new. The experience of approaching a pass like Zalung Karpo La is layered and immersive. As you climb through the valley, the pass becomes your goal, your compass, your horizon. You walk through multiple ecological zones, experiencing a diversity of landscapes, flora, and altitudes, all within the same valley. But the pass itself is more than a physical achievement, it’s symbolic.
When you finally reach the top, what lies ahead is a whole new world: a new watershed, a different valley, sometimes a striking shift in culture. The moment you stand at the pass becomes one of reflection and anticipation – a pause between what was and what’s to come. Crossing a mountain pass is like turning the page of a book, closing one chapter and stepping into the next.
Zalung Karpo La, perched at an altitude of 5,200 meters, offers precisely this kind of meaningful transition. As you leave behind the traditional villages and rugged terrain of the Zanskar range, you cross into the wide, rolling expanse of the Changthang plateau. This is the homeland of the Changpa nomads, where landscapes soften into undulating hills, yaks roam in herds, and the glistening high-altitude lakes – Tso Moriri, Tso Kar – dot the arid plains. This pass is not just a high point on the map, it’s a doorway into a different way of life.
Zalung Karpo La Pass
A passage to the magic of Kharnak on the Changthang plateau.
An excellent alternative to the classic Markha valley trek
The Chang Chu river
A really enjoyable valley after the Markha
The Markha Valley trek has long been a favorite among trekkers in Ladakh, offering a rich blend of dramatic scenery, welcoming villages, and cultural immersion. But over the years, increasing road connectivity has significantly altered the nature of the trek. With motorable roads now reaching Markha village and even as far as Hankar, what used to be a 7-day immersive experience has, in many cases, been reduced to a 4-day journey with long drives cutting into what once made the trek so memorable.
That’s where the Markha to Dat trek, or Markha to Kharnak via the Zalung Karpo La Pass comes in as an ideal alternative. This route preserves all the classic highlights: the serene ambiance of Markha and Hankar villages, the unforgettable sight of Kang Yatse towering over the valley, and the tranquil rhythm of walking through the landscape rather than driving past it. After Hankar, instead of following the main route toward Nimaling, you branch off at the campsite of Thachungtse.
From there, the path leads south into a quieter, lesser-trodden valley carved by the Langtang Chu river, which originates from the Zalung Karpo La Pass. This detour adds just 2 to 3 days to the conventional Markha trek but drastically enhances the experience. You transition from the popular Markha corridor into the untouched realm of the Changthang plateau, on foot. The solitude increases, the scenery transforms, and the trek becomes a journey of contrast and discovery. For those seeking a richer, more rewarding version of the Markha trek, this is the perfect route.
A Lesser-known route from Markha to Lato via Nimaling and high passes
The rainbow mountain of Ladakh
Red, purple, green and orangish hues are the color palette of these wonderful mountains in the Hemis National Park
For those seeking a more adventurous route to the Changthang plateau from the classic Markha Valley trek, there exists a spectacular alternative starting from Hankar and continuing to Nimaling (4785 m). Nimaling now hosts temporary trekking camps set up by locals during the season, making it possible to trek this route without a full support team.
Instead of crossing the popular Kongmaru La, this variant heads southeast over several lesser-known yet breathtaking passes. From Nimaling, trekkers can head toward the Lhalung La pass (5355 m), which opens onto the secluded region of Lalung.
From there, a climb to Chagtsang La leads to a remote campsite at Chaktsang, where you’ll spend the night in complete wilderness. The following day, you cross your final pass, the Poze La (4950 m), and descend gradually to the welcoming village of Lato (4010 m), where guesthouses provide a restful conclusion to the trek.
There are also two notable variants of this route :
1. The Rainbow Gorge Variant
Instead of heading toward Chagtsang La and Poze La after Lhalung La, you can follow the river that cuts through an extraordinary gorge. This valley, though rugged and without a defined trail, presents a surreal landscape of red and purple rock strata, with touches of green grass, often compared to, and even surpassing in beauty, Peru’s Rainbow Mountain. Prepare for multiple river crossings and some boulder navigation, as this variant is wild and unmarked. The route eventually brings you out onto the Manali–Leh highway, from where Lato is just an hour’s walk away.
2. The High Alpine Lake and Dzo Jongo Route
Another striking option is to follow the river upstream from Nimaling to a small alpine lake nestled at the base of Dzo Jongo peak. From there, an unnamed pass at 5634 m, partially covered in ice, can be crossed. This remote, high-altitude route descends through a pristine valley, ultimately leading you directly to Lato village.
Each of these alternatives offers a true wilderness experience and stunning geological features, perfect for seasoned trekkers looking to explore beyond the usual trails of Ladakh.
The Markha to Kharnak trek features
Duration of your trek
Day-min : The minimum number of days required for the trek (from Leh to Leh)
Day-max : The maximum number of days you can spend on this trek. Prolonged itinerary can be discussed with our team.
AWTD : Average walking time per day (<3 : easy, 3 to 5 : moderate, >5 : strenuous
Altitudes of your trek
Min : Minimum altitude of your trek.
Max : Maximum altitude of your trek.
Ascent : The total ascent throughout the trek.
Descent : The total descent throughout on the trek.
Difficulty of your trek
Stamina : The physical effort involved during your trek. Rated from 0 (easiest) to 100 (most strenuous). If you have an average fitness you can consider all the treks up to 50. See here for more details
Technical : Difficulty of your trek in terms of exposure to danger and required experience.
0 to 20 : No difficulties,
20 to 40 : Walking on good mountain trails,
40 to 60 : Some walking on difficult mountain trails (steep slopes, rocks, etc.),
60 to 80: You are exposed to some dangers (void, snow, falling rocks, etc.),
80 to 100 : Experience required (please inquire).
Overall : Average between Stamina and Technical rating.
Duration
Altitudes
Difficulty
The Markha to Kharnak (Changthang) trek map
The Markha valley to Changthang trek itinerary in short
The trek initially follows the Markha valley trek trail until Thachungtse from where you enter another valley towards the Zalung Karpo La. It is then a rewarding descent till the nomadic settlement of Dat.
Best time to do the Marha to Kharnak (Changthang) trek
The best time to experience the Yak Trek is from April to August
JAN
Avoid
FEB
Avoid
MAR
Avoid
APR
Avoid
MAY
Avoid
JUN
Avoid
JUL
Best time to go
AUG
Best time to go
SEP
Best time to go
OCT
You may go
NOV
Avoid
DEC
Avoid
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From our gallery
The Markha valley to Changthang trek in pictures
Itinerary
Day One : Drive from Leh to Sara (3700 m) – Hike to Markha village (3790 m)
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You can comfortably start your day from your hotel in Leh without any rush. The journey begins with a scenic drive to Sara village in the Markha Valley, which takes about 2 to 3 hours. From there, a short and pleasant hike of just over an hour brings you to the beautiful village of Markha. This gentle introduction allows you to ease into the trek while still feeling the thrill of entering the Markha Valley on foot. Once in Markha, settle into your cozy homestay and soak in the tranquil vibe of village life. Spend time with your Ladakhi hosts, enjoy a warm meal, and get a sense of the cultural richness that defines this unique region. > |
Day Two : Markha (3790 m) to Hankar (4000 m)– A classic stretch of the valley
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The stretch from Markha to Hankar is one of the most well-loved sections of the Markha Valley trek. The trail gently follows the course of the river, winding through lush riverbanks lined with thick bushes that occasionally provide welcome shade. Along the way, you’ll come across the ancient and photogenic Tacha Monastery, perched dramatically on a cliff, a perfect place to pause and reflect. While the trail itself isn’t particularly difficult, you will need to cross the river a few times, which might involve removing your shoes. Get used to this : river crossings are a regular part of the Markha to Dat trek. And here’s your first tip: never cross a river with your shoes on. Remove them, secure them to your rucksack, and cross barefoot or, better yet, bring a pair of Crocs or water sandals to protect your feet on the rocky riverbeds. The walk from Markha to Hankar typically takes 4 to 5 hours. Once you reach Hankar - the last and highest village in the Markha Valley - relax and enjoy a peaceful night surrounded by the Himalayas. |
Day Three : Hankar (4000 m) to Langthang Chen (4310 m) – Entering the Wilderness
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Today, the adventure shifts gears as you leave behind the villages and step into the remote wilderness of Ladakh. From this point onward, you'll be camping in tents. You’ll be accompanied by a well-prepared support team, including your guide, cook, assistants, and a few sturdy horses that carry the gear and provisions. The day begins with a gradual ascent beyond the Thachungtse campsite. But instead of heading toward Nimaling like on the classic route, you take a southern turn to follow the Langthang Chu river valley, which leads toward the Zalung Karpo La Pass. The landscape begins to change as you make your way toward your next campsite at Langthang Chen, located at 4,310 meters elevation. You’ll notice the silence of the high-altitude wilderness and the growing presence of towering peaks—a beautiful transition from inhabited villages to alpine solitude. |
Day Four : Langthang Chen (4310 m) to Yakrupal (4755 m) – Acclimatization in the high mountains
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With top-quality camping gear and the attentive care of your trekking crew, you should have had a good night’s rest. Today’s walk is deliberately short, as it’s important not to gain too much elevation too quickly. You’ll ascend only 400–500 meters today to ensure proper acclimatization. The trail continues along the Langthang Chu river, with the majestic Kang Yatse peak as your constant companion on the left. You’ll hike through dramatic, open high-altitude landscapes with minimal vegetation but maximum awe. You’ll stop for the night at the campsite known as Yakrupal—a peaceful and scenic spot that prepares you for tomorrow’s ascent to the pass. |
Day Five : Yakrupal (4755 m) to Kharnak Khar (4195 m) via Zalung Karpo La pass (5190 m)
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This is the highlight of the trek - the crossing of the Zalung Karpo La Pass, a moment that will likely stay with you forever. The climb itself isn’t technically difficult, but given the elevation (over 5,000 meters), it can feel strenuous. Take it slow and steady. When you reach the top of Zalung Karpo La, you're rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree panorama. To your right, the massive Zanskar range stretches far into the distance. To your left, Kang Yatse continues to dominate the horizon. Behind you, the familiar landscapes of the Markha Valley slowly fade, and ahead lies the vast Changthang plateau, shimmering in the high-altitude light. Take your time at the pass, it’s not just a geographical crossing, but a powerful emotional and symbolic transition. The descent from the pass begins on a narrow, rocky trail with some exposure, so proceed with caution. The path eventually levels out and brings you to the campsite of Kharnak Khar, where you can explore intriguing ancient ruins nearby. |
Day Six : Kharnak Khar (4195 m) to Dat (4330 m) – Through a Stunning Gorge
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Today’s journey is filled with contrasts. After leaving Kharnak Khar, you descend further into a dramatic gorge that leads you past a spot called Tantse. At times, the trail hugs the river so closely that you may be walking “in the river” - an exhilarating part of the trek for adventurous souls. After the gorge, the trail gradually ascends again with a gentle slope that leads to Dat. Once a nomadic settlement, Dat is a quiet, atmospheric village where time seems to stand still. There are no homestays here, so you’ll enjoy your final night of camping under the stars, reflecting on the extraordinary landscapes you’ve crossed. |
Day Seven : Drive from Dat – Extend your adventure into the Changthang plateau
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| On your final day, a vehicle will pick you up from Dat and take you to your next destination. But your Ladakh journey doesn’t have to end here. Why not use this opportunity to visit one of the iconic high-altitude lakes of the Changthang plateau - Tso Kar or Tso Moriri? Or perhaps you’d like to spend time with the Changpa nomads, gaining deeper insights into their way of life and their bond with the land. Let us know how you’d like to extend the experience, we’re happy to help you create a tailor-made adventure that goes beyond the usual. |
Gallery
The Markha valley to Changthang trek in pictures
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